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Saturday, 13 August 2016

Motorhome Adventures 2016: Brecon Beacons

A slightly longer trip now we're getting the hang of things. We found last time that having a car as well as the van was invaluable (yes, you can drive about in the van but it's a hassle unplugging all the electrics etc; yes, you can take bicycles but sometimes you want to go a little further or you need to pick up heavy stuff like a spare gas cylinder; and there isn't necessarily a handy bus service). So I followed the van in my car (humming "my old man said follow the van" as I go).

I lost him at the toll bridge but had my sat nav to get me most of the way there - but realised I had neglected to ask what the site was actually called. So had to stop in a layby and phone. Turns out it's "Brecon Beacons Caravan Club site" and I was about 100 yards from it.

We select pitch 17 this time and I unload the car while Arthur goes to inform them where we are.

The satellite dish isn't working so looks like we might have to go back to Kendal (where we picked up the van from) to get it fixed. I don't mind too much - I'm spared the news for a few days. Arthur seems to like being terminally depressed by what's gong on in the world while on holiday, but I don't!

We walked along the canal to the town of Brecon to find somewhere for lunch. Our path was crossed by a creature I think must have been a water vole. It didn't have a long enough tail to be a rat. There were houseboats gliding serenely along, several cyclists and lots of sheep (well, we are in Wales, after all).

Brecon has a castle and a pretty church and a place that did Sunday lunch.

The site is similar to the last one, except the shop is much bigger. There are also more families (mostly people even older than we are in Hurn Lane, but then, it wasn't school holidays when we were there.)

Ate in again, cooked chilli and retired to the sound of some bird hooting (it didn't sound like an owl, don't know what it was) and Arthur saying "I wish that bird would shut up."

Next day, it rained. And rained. And rained. We considered having sandwiches in the van but figured if we didn't go out for lunch we wouldn't go out all day so we went and found a little cafe in Brecon that did all day breakfast.

The lowest Rainbow ever
We visited Brecon Cathedral and a military museum - a veritable Aladdin's cave of military stuff.

Brecon Cathedral
Went back to the site and watched the new arrivals in the pitch opposite putting up their tent in the rain; the people walking along the path with about five small dogs on leads and a pushchair. When they get closer, we see they don't have a child in the pushchair - it's another dog; people driving up with no less than six bicycles strapped to their car and a caravan which was actually smaller than their car.

The next day the weather's slightly better and Arthur fancies doing something called the Four Waterfalls walk he's seen on the internet. We drive to a place called Ystadfellt where there is a nice pub which does an amazing variety of vegan pies. Laura the bar person sold me on a drunken mushroom pie only to come back after I'd ordered it so say they were out of it - so I had a curry one instead. Delicious. And you don't have to be vegan to eat them.

A standing stone in the hills

The first waterfall
We set out on the walk which was very muddy and quite hard going clambering over tree roots and rocks and leaping over streams. We found the first waterfall but were put off by the fact the map classified the rest of the route as "hard and strenuous" and we thought the "easy" bit was strenuous enough.

Driving too and from this place was a bit like driving in the Alps - steep, bendy, narrow roads, only with less snow and more sheep. Luckily the sheep have the sense to get out of the way when there's a car coming.

By now, the people opposite had put their flag out, which, according to Arthur and Google, was the flag for Kent.

View from the camp site
The following day we thought we'd try another walk but it was pouring again and my waterproof jacket isn't. We stopped for a burger in a layby and mused upon the weather. It was quite likely it would rain again and I was reluctant to risk a two to three hour walk in a jacket that's only shower proof. So instead we went back to Brecon and went shopping. One of the outdoor shops had a sale on so I got two waterproof coats, one for walks and one to wear at home since the coat I bought last year turned out not to be waterproof, either.

The weather cleared a little bit later on so I went and explored the camp site. Found the dog walk, and next to that was a sign to a pub which advertised itself as doing food all day with a phone number to book. 10 minutes walk, it said. Arthur looked it up on Trip Adviser and it turned out to have the best reviews of any restaurant he'd ever seen on there - ever. We booked, probably got the last table. They could only fit us in eating at the bar at 6.45. Bit early for us, but needs must. Despite calling itself child and dog friendly there weren't any kids in there and just one dog, which lived there.


It was a rather fortunate find. A real gastro pub with the menu printed on brown paper and served rolls with Marmite flavoured butter. Which people either love or hate, I guess, but we liked it. Had monkfish in gin and tonic batter (though you can't taste the g and t any more than you can taste beer in beer batter but it was very nice all the same!) So if you're in Brecon, the Three Horseshoes is definitely worth a visit.

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